Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Review: Dogfish Head Burton Baton




I poured a 12 ounce bottle from this year's batch into a Sam Adams Sensory glass.

Look: Appealing golden reddish-brown with a slightly tan head, I didn't get much head on my pour from a 12 ounce bottle, but I went easy on it. A steady stream of bubbles arose from the nucleation points at the bottom of my Sam Adams glass. The thin head quickly dissipated, but some light lacing was evident.

Smell: Not too strong, but a vanilla oakiness with maybe some fruit and hops - nothing too overpowering in the least.

Taste: This has some of the characteristics of all the trendy burbon-barrel aged beers but none of the overpowering flavor some of them exhibit. The initial flavors are sweet but not too sweet, with some nice caramel, vanilla, oak, and fruitiness, without being cloying. The snap of bitterness cleans the palate nicely with some sweetness and effervescence remaining on the tongue. I expected a beer with fairly low carbonation, but I feel the moderately high levels help to avoid an overly sweet and sticky beer. Some of the baking soda flavors I've been hating about high-IBU beers make their appearance a minute or so after swallowing, but aren't abhorrent.

Mouthfeel: As I mentioned, I think the carbonation levels help create a truly excellent mouthfeel - nearly on the levels of Saison Dupont perfection. It's full and smooth in the mouth and the sweetness is well-displayed, but the bubbles and hop snap leaves your tongue feeling ready for more.

Drinkability: Honestly, I consider most any beer highly drinkable if it's a style I enjoy. Burton Baton is quite dangerous, as the high ABV is disguised by a truly excellent mouthfeel that allows you to take one swig after another. A great beer from a brewery I would expect to make a high-end DIPA.